The changing face of Lyon:
“Gastronomy, intangible heritage”. 2013 edition.
We invite you to discover our 10th medal, created in collaboration with Nicolas SALAGNAC, medal engraver and Meilleur Ouvrier de France, always with the aim of promoting our city and its region.
After having focused on the triptych of Medicine, the Automobile and Education, which is widely associated with the development and promotion of Lyon, we have chosen Gastronomy for 2013, with its most illustrious artisans and creators who welcome us, delight us and bring us closer together every day.
Once the capital of the Gauls, Lyon is now recognized as the Capital of Gastronomy and ambassador of the “gastronomic meal of the French”, consecrated on November 16, 2010 by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity.
Michel CHENEVAT,
Regional Director, EIFFAGE CONSTRUCTION CENTRE-EST
Dominique GAUDIN,
Director, EIFFAGE CONSTRUCTION RHONE
The Mayor of Lyon Gérard Collomb surrounded by many of Lyon’s gastronomic personalities © Studio Erick SAILLET
As the world capital of gastronomy, our city owes its renown to the genius of several generations of chefs, from the Mères lyonnaises to young talents, including the most famous of its ambassadors, Paul Bocuse. To build such success, our chefs have been able to draw on the quality of our terroir and the expertise of our craftsmen, major assets in this increasingly competitive world of culinary arts. Today, the reputation of our city’s hotel schools and trade shows is testimony to this dynamism. With its focus on innovation and creativity, Lyon is renowned for its ability to keep this great tradition of the table alive, while betting on the future.
It is the strength of this link between our city and gastronomic culture that Nicolas Salagnac so successfully expresses in this new medal created for the Eiffage Group. I salute the quality of the work of this highly talented craftsman who, better than anyone else, knows how to highlight the trades that have made and continue to make Lyon prosper.
Gérard COLLOMB, Senator-Mayor of Lyon – President of Greater Lyon
LYON, HOTEL DIEU, CUISINE: A SHARED HISTORY
As we all know, LYON is the French city emblematic of Gastronomy. And for good reason…
In addition to its geographical location at the crossroads of the finest local produce, Lyon is also home to a large number of famous chefs, Michelin-starred restaurants and century-old brasseries whose sole aim is to represent and promote the French culinary arts.
Under the leadership of Monsieur Paul Bocuse, gastronomic excellence is served on every corner of our streets.
Les Toques Blanches at Paul Bocuse © leFotographe.com
Recently, Lyon’s chefs, with their passion for cuisine, and supported by the Association des TOQUES BLANCHES LYONNAISES, mobilized to ensure that our beautiful capital of Gaul was officially elected “CITE DE LA GASTRONOMIE” and that this wonderful title was represented in one of our region’s most beautiful monuments: L’HOTEL DIEU…
Isn’t this magnificent building a fine symbol of our city’s entry into the UNESCO World Heritage List?
Christophe MARGUIN, President of Toques Blanches du Monde
AND LYON BECAME WORLD CAPITAL…
Jean-Patrick MESNARD, journalist and food writer.
Sébastien CHAMBRU, MOF 2004. Photographies Matthieu Cellard.
Thanks to the prodigiousness of a phrase uttered by Curnonsky in 1925, the city acquired the title of world capital of gastronomy. It’s an immense trophy for gourmandise, and one that has since had an impact on our appetites: every fine gourmet must one day make the trip to Lyon, to sit down in a bouchon, a brasserie, or even at the summit of the gastronomic sky, with a Michelin-starred chef. The power of words is certainly decisive: “It is through words that we think”, as Hegel says. But if the word reveals the thing, it only makes the existing apparent. Lyon was a beacon of gastronomy, long before Curnonsky set the record straight. We didn’t say it, we didn’t proclaim it, we lived it every day, at every service, at every banquet or simple mâchon: in Lyon, we’ve always enjoyed good food. That’s the truth!
Part One
As early as Roman times, Lyon was already the crossroads of the food trade that it has always been. The city’s geographical location is therefore crucial to its future development as a capital of taste. What better place to set up fairs and markets than at the confluence of the Saône and Rhône rivers? Everything comes to Lyon naturally, just follow the course of the river. From the north come poultry from Bresse, fish, crayfish and frogs from neighboring Dombes, and the finest vintages from Burgundy and Beaujolais. The south supplies fruit, vegetables and olive oil, as well as fish and shellfish from the Mediterranean, which soon find their way to fishmongers’ stalls. The Charolais, Vivarais, Velay and Auvergne regions are home to the finest meats. A beautiful cradle!
Thanks to the fairs of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, the range of resources expanded. Products crossed the seas to add flavor to recipes: citrons, oranges, spices including nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, galanga… We can’t aspire to become a world capital if the finest specialties from known lands don’t converge here.
In the 16th century, Rabelais published his Quart Livre in Lyon, where we find a few indications of the delicacies that were simmering in Lyon’s kitchens in those days: partridges with cabbage, wood pigeons with leeks, salted eels, ducks with dodine, hare pâtés, pigs’ trotters in lard, as well as fritters, pancakes and boiled eggs… We also know that cardoons were served at an official dinner on February 25, 1548… The marriages of our kings to the beautiful Florentines Catherine and Marie de Médicis brought us new wonders in their wake: tomatoes, artichokes and asparagus arrived straight from the boot!
And so, over time, cooks built up an aromatic palette, an interplay of textures and flavors that gave rise to the first outlines of a gastronomy. A list of them was drawn up in the 17th century, in a book cheerfully entitled “Entrée magnifique de Bacchus avec Madame Dimanche Grasse, sa femme faite en la ville de Lyon, le 14 février 1627”. An ancestor of our guides? These were published much later, in the first decades of the 19th century, and already featured Lyon’s finest restaurants. La Mère Guy in La Mulatière, founded in 1759, is recommended, as are Toriani, Casati, the Brasserie des Archers…
Since 2008, a unique research and innovation center has been open there. Researchers work in a multidisciplinary approach in fields as diverse as nutrition, sensory evaluation, sociology, psychology, consumer behavior, food science, etc. Its goal is to break down the barriers between the art of the table and the world of scientific research in order to develop knowledge that is directly applicable to companies in the hotel and catering sector as well as the food industry.
Whatever the result, Lyon and its gastronomy continue to assert their taste for innovation and creativity. The city’s gourmet profile is reshaped with each generation, the future is always a gourmet promise… Let’s keep our appetites!
Jean-Patrick MESNARD, culinary journalist and author.
LYON, IN THE CAPITAL Jean-François MESPLÈDE, gourmet author, director of the Michelin Guide France until 2009
Edouard Herriot et Marius Vettard © Page d’Écriture
If we are to believe some killjoys, this flattering ranking is only due to Curnonsky’s words. « Lyon is the world capital of gastronomy » declared the Prince-elect of gastronomes in 1934 after a dinner at Marius Vettard’s. A little later, Maurice Edmond Sailland (his real name) clarified his thoughts. « I have eaten in almost all the restaurants in France and Navarre and I have never eaten better than in Lyon. And not only in the ninety or a hundred caterers in the city, thirty of whom are world-renowned, but in the most modest inns and even in the homes of locals. Not to mention the great hosts of Lyon who are glories of the Table ».
Eugénie Brazier et Fernand Point © Page d’Écriture
The following year, in the book Hommages à la cuisine lyonnaise, he hammered the point home. “It is probity and a taste for moderation that I like to find in honest and healthy Lyonnaise cuisine. I remember writing somewhere this sentence that has been repeated or copied a lot since: the common characteristic of Greek art and French art is that they never aim for effect. Lyonnaise cuisine is part of French art, precisely because it never makes an effect. It does not pose, it does not sacrifice to easy eloquence. It reaches quite naturally and as if without effort, this supreme degree of art: simplicity.”
Was Curnonsky a precursor then? Not really if we want to remember the long tradition of “eating well” that remains one of the characteristics of the city. In Roman times, the fact was already known and reported. And at the time of the Renaissance, the humanist and theologian Erasmus was enthusiastic. “You are not treated better at home than you are in a hotel in Lyon. The mother of the family arrives first to greet you, asking us to be in a good mood and to accept what we are served. The table is truly sumptuous and I do not understand how the innkeepers of Lyon manage to treat their guests like this for such a modest price. It is as if they put their all into it and that they aim more to practice the virtue of hospitality than to amass wealth.”
n 1964 at the Col de la Luère: a shower of stars at Mère Brazier. Paul Blanc (Thoissey), Paul Bocuse (Collonges-au-Mont d’Or), Jean Vettard, Jean Vignard, Marius Vettard (seated), Christian Bourillot, Roger Roucou, Paul Lacombe (all Lyon) and Guy Thivard (Vienne) © Archives Page d’Écriture
It is therefore obvious that we practice “good eating” here. This was confirmed in the 19th century by Pétrus Sambardier, a journalist and fine gastronome. “At all times, the architecture of the stomach and the philosophy of intestines have held a capital place in the arts, sciences and commerce of Lyon. A hundred years ago, the hotel industry was the noisiest of Lyon’s industries, we mean the one that advertised the most. Open a Lyon newspaper in 1824, you will find nothing but advertisements for delicacies.”
So how can we not refer to the remarks made a decade earlier by Léon Daudet, a writer with strong political ideas, a controversial journalist and a declared hedonist? “Here are three reasons why Lyon is the capital of French gastronomy. The first is that this incomparable gastronomic city is close to Bresse, where, along with the creamy quenelles, you can find the best poultry in the world. The hens fattened using wise methods and as if covered in fatty gold. The second is that it has crayfish on its markets that are now impossible to find anywhere else, and in the black morel season. The third is that, apart from the Saône and the Rhône, it is crossed by a third river, the Beaujolais, which is never muddy or dry.”
Here we are. In this city that « makes you hungry » as Paul Bocuse so aptly put it, you will find not only talented chefs, but also the best products.
The city, which has always been at a crossroads, is in the immediate vicinity of the Rhone Valley, the Monts du Lyonnais, the vineyards of Burgundy, the plains of Charolais, Ain and the foothills of Savoie!
Three culinary forms in Lyon with Olivier Paget: L’Âme Sœur; Arai Tsuyoshi: Au 14 Février and Guy Lassausaie in Chasselay, the last two being starred © Archives Page d’Écriture
If we are to take the gastronomic guides as a reference, we can only note the leading position – behind Paris, that Lyon holds in this area. In any case, it is the only provincial city in the entire long history of the Michelin guide to have had, in the same year, four restaurants with three stars, or 20% of the selection at this level!
And even today, behind the immovable Paul Bocuse, a generation of talented chefs who express themselves in different registers, contribute to placing the city at the top. In the capital, therefore!
LYON, A L’AUNE DU GUIDE MICHELIN,
1936 : 35 étoiles pour 19 établissements sur 21 cités !
The “three stars” awarded in 2007: Around the Lyonnais Jean-François Mesplède, director of the Michelin France guide, Pascal Barbot (Astrance), Yannick Alleno (Le Meurice), Frédéric Anton (Le Pré Catelan), Jacques Lameloise (Lameloise in Chagny) and Anne-Sophie Pic (Pic in Valence).
With Jean-Luc Naret (Director of the Michelin guides) © Archives Page d’Écriture
***: La Mère Brazier rue Royale; La Mère Brazier at the Col de la Luère; La Mère Guy (Foillard-35 quai Jean-Jacques Rousseau); Francotte (8 place des Célestins).
**: Morateur (14 rue Grolée); Garcin (11 rue d’Algérie); Farge (Branche-1 place des Cordeliers); Le Files de Sole (Menweg-34 rue Ferrandière); Sorret (24 quai de Retz); La Mère Filloux (73 rue Duquesne); Vignard Joseph “Chez Juliette” (23 rue de l’Arbre Sec); Mme Léon Dahan-Le Capitole (22 boulevard des Brotteaux); Les Mouettes (21 rue Claudia)
*: Lamour (Ferrando 19 place Tolozan); Café Neuf (Vettard 7 place Bellecour); À l’Ecrevisse (10 rue Confort); La Mère Bigot (3 rue Chavanne); Le Chateaubriand (Thibaud 3 place Kléber) and Chez Jean (23 rue Palais Grillet).
In 1934 when Curnonsky came to Lyon, the situation was almost identical even if Francotte and La Mère Guy were still only rated two stars by the Michelin guide.
But on the other hand, we find Surgère at 10 rue Confort with two stars, La Renaissance, Rivier and Lecot in Rochetaillée with stars.
1966: 26 stars for 17 establishments
***: Paul Bocuse in Collonges-au-Mont d’Or; La Mère Brazier at the Col de la Luère
**: Le Mère Guy (Roucou); La Mère Brazier (Brazier); Nandron; Chez Juliette (Jean Vignard); La Sauvagie (Andrée in Tassin)
*: Café Neuf (Vettard); Henry; Le Nord (Rouchy); Léon de Lyon (Lacombe); Tante Alice (Savoy); La Grille (Basile); Les Fantasques (Gervais); La Voûte (Bidaut); The Good Inn « Chez Jo » (Rogliardo) and Les Grillons (Pléney in Champagne)
2006: 19 stars for 14 establishments
***: Paul Bocuse in Collonges-au-Mont d’Or
**: Léon de Lyon (Lacombe); La Rotonde (Gauvreau); L’Auberge de l’Île (Ansanay-Alex)
*: Les Trois Dômes (Sofitel Desvilles); Les Terrasses de Lyon (Villa
Florentine Tissot); Pierre Orsi; Christian Têtedoie; L’Auberge de Fond Rose (Vignat); L’Alexandrin (Alexanian); Nicolas Le Bec; Le Gourmet de Sèze (Mariller); Mathieu Viannay; Larivoire (Constantin).
2012: 20 stars for 14 establishments
***: Paul Bocuse in Collonges-au-Mont d’Or
**: Mère Brazier (Mathieu Viannay); Philippe Gauvreau – Pavillon de La Rotonde; Auberge de L’Ile (Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex); Guy Lassausaie in Chasselay
*: Les Trois Dômes – Sofitel (Alain Desvilles); Pierre Orsi; Christian Têtedoie; Les Terrasses de Lyon – Villa Florentine (Davy Tissot); Maison
Clovis (Clovis Khoury); Le Gourmet de Sèze (Bernard Mariller); Au 14
Février (Araï Tsuyoshi); Les Loges – La Cour des Loges (Anthony Bonnet); Larivoire in Rillieux (Bernard Constantin)
Jean-François MESPLÈDE, gourmet author, director of the Michelin Guide France until 2009
MEDAL ENGRAVER, IN THE 21ST CENTURY.
Nicolas SALAGNAC, Medal Engraver MOF 2000, creator of the medal
More than five hundred years ago, the first French medal was struck in Lyon, for the passage of Louis XII and Anne of Brittany. Here the art of the medal has left a rich heritage. Here the ancient Lugdunum supported a minting workshop for the Roman Empire. Here the city has seen renowned Houses and Men who have worked for the influence of the medal: Louis Muller engraver from Lyon, Grand Prix de Rome in 1932; the Penin family, with four generations of engravers; the A. Augis family… Based here, in Lyon since 1994, I am proud to participate in perpetuating and making better known this art of the medal, which has become rare.
At a time when a world run by finance would like to consecrate hyperconsumption and glorify new technologies to promote standardized and trivialized works, I mark my creations and I sign that only man is capable, through skillful and precise gestures, of inscribing an intention in matter, of arousing emotions, of prolonging a sensitivity, a vision, a spirit, a soul.
Happy that my perseverance on this line has allowed me to conquer beautiful references:
My first official order was the medal of the city of Lyon (published by la Monnaie de Paris – 2006), at the request of Mayor Gérard COLLOMB.
Then the medal of honor for the Villa Medici, Académie de France in Rome (published by Arthus-Bertrand – 2008) at the request of its director
Frédéric Mitterrand. The official medal of the President of the French Republic, Nicolas Sarkozy (published by Arthus-Bertrand – 2008). And recently medals and trophies for the “Cuisiniers de la République Française”, led by Guillaume Gomez, MOF 2004 Cuisine and chef alongside Bernard Vaussion at the Palais de l’Elysée… Beautiful references of which I am proud.
Photographie Matthieu Cellard.
The Eiffage Construction Rhône and Rhône-Alpes Group, for 10 years now, has allowed me to express myself on subjects related to the brand image of Lyon. Thank you for this renewed trust.
THE EVOLUTION OF PROFESSIONS IN LYON: GASTRONOMY
The precise choice of the subject: “the evolution of professions in Lyon”, takes a modern look at professions that have marked and still mark the city of Lyon today. It is not simply a question of highlighting the past, but from the past, seeing the present and tending towards the future.
My work stages: The first stage is the development of a drawn model. For this, I informed myself and documented myself on Lyonnaise gastronomy. This research and the advice received led me to highlight two emblematic characters, crowned with three stars in the Michelin guide: Eugénie Brazier, known as Mère Brazier and Paul Bocuse.
Photographie Jeff Nalin pour Paul Bocuse et Photo confiée par Mme Jacotte Brazier.
In this composition, a place is made for architecture. First of all, in the lower part, the old Halles de Lyon, this “belly of Lyon” designed in 1858 by the architect Tony Desjardins. It is a place that has marked its time. It is characterized by large glass roofs, clarity, height, because it is built with riveted metal beams, like the famous Eiffel Tower and more locally the Fourvière Tower. Going back in the composition of the medal, we see the modern Halles: “Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse”. In the background pierces the “pencil”, the Tour de la Part-Dieu. Finally, the Grand Hôtel Dieu, built by Soufflot, emerges, and may be the seat of the future city of gastronomy…
At the center of the medal is alchemy, effervescence… the raw material, vegetables, a Bresse chicken and a Dombes pike… then their transformation, the kitchen and the hands that get busy.
Two specialties are highlighted, ready to taste:
– the Bresse half-mourning chicken, by Mère Brazier
– the VGE truffle soup, by Paul Bocuse. This famous soup was created by the great chef, on the occasion of a lunch served at the Elysée in 1975. It combines a vegetable soup, truffle and foie gras, all simmered under a puff pastry.
Promoted to Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, Paul Bocuse was presented with this famous decoration by President Valérie Giscard D’Estain, under the gold of the Republic. That day, the chefs present with Paul Bocuse (Pierre and Jean Troisgros; Michel Guérard; Roger Vergé; Marcel Le Servot, head chef at the Elysée) prepared the meal.
A little anecdote… When it was time to eat this soup, the President asked: “But Mr. Bocuse, how should we eat it?” A question to which Paul Bocuse replied: “Let’s have a bite to eat, Mr. President!”
The second step consists of transposing the drawing into a bas-relief, by a sculpture three times larger than the future medal.
The third step is the reproduction of this sculpture on the steel matrix using the reduction lathe. Here, the machine is essential, but the engraving at this point remains timid and not very expressive.
The final work is done by hand with burins, tabs, chisels… all monitored under a microscope. This finishing step is essential, the engraver then gives his « touch ».
Finished, the matrix is signed, dated and heat treated to allow the edition by striking of the future medals.
Nicolas SALAGNAC, Engraver medallist MOF 2000, creator of the medal
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Gérard COLLOMB, Senator – Mayor of Lyon, President of Greater Lyon
Christophe MARGUIN, President of Toques Blanches du Monde
Jean-Patrick MESNARD, journalist and culinary author
Jean-François Mesplède, director of the Michelin France guide until 2009, author of a “Dictionary of Chefs” and a series of books published by Page d’Écriture on the theme “A Gourmet Heritage”.
They helped and advised me:
Paul Bocuse (MOF 1961); Guy Lassausaie (MOF 1993); Pierre Orsi (MOF 1972); Mathieu Viannay (MOF 2004); Stéphane BACHES, from Bachès editions; Laurence Bérard, CNRS resources of Terroirs.
For documents and iconographies:
Matthieu Cellard, photographer; Etienne HEIMERMANN, photographer; Studio Erick SAILLET; Jeff Nalin, photographer; Jacotte BRAZIER; Jean-François Mesplède.
To the craftsmen who contributed to the smooth running of this creation. Pichard-Balme, publisher of the medal.
Michel Chenevat, regional director of Eiffage Construction Centre Est and Dominique GAUDIN, director of Eiffage Construction Rhône for their
support. Arab HASSAOUI and Thierry MONNIER, development and sales directors of Eiffage Construction Rhône.
MEDALS CREATED AND ENGRAVED BY Nicolas SALAGNAC
The medals below were created with the help of the company Eiffage construction Rhône
1st triptych:
Theme of the city of Lyon. 90 mm square medals, accompanied by a booklet.
2004 – “Lugdunum, the Claudian Table at the confluence of history and Lyon” – Editions Scriptoria
2005 – “Lyon, 2000 years of architecture” – Editions Scriptoria. This creation by Nicolas Salagnac won the first national grand prize of the SEMA in traditional crafts. Prize awarded by Minister Renaud Dutreil
2006 – “Lyon, Intangible Heritage” – Editions Scriptoria
2nd triptych:
Theme, the architects of the region. 90 mm square medals, accompanied by a booklet.
2007 – “Le Corbusier” – Editions Scriptoria
2008 – “Tony Garnier, 1869 – 1948” – Publisher Fia/Salagnac
2009 – “Soufflot and Lyon, an imprint” – Publisher Fia/Salagnac
3rd triptych:
Theme, the evolution of professions in Lyon. 90 mm square medals, accompanied by a booklet.
2010 – “Medicine” – Edition Pichard-Balme/Salagnac
2011 – “The Automobile” – Edition Pichard-Balme/Salagnac
2012 – “Teaching” – Edition Pichard-Balme/Salagnac